miércoles, 2 de septiembre de 2009

Calibres Seiko

Movt. #Prefix #WindingModel NameModel #JewelsMade
Year
Made
Loc.
Diam; ThickBeats/sec
10AHand10Solar10S19D15.5 x 13; 3.5t5.5
10B, CHand10Solar10S17 - 2115.5 x 13; 3.5t5.5
10MHand10Solar10S1715.5 x 13; 3.5t5.5
1004A,BHand10Angel10AN2115.5 x 13; 4.4t5.5
1004CHand10Angel10AN17 - 2115.5 x 13; 4.4t5.5
1004D,MHand10Angel10AN1715.5 x 13; 4.4t5.5
1020A,B,CHand10QueenSeiko10QS231964D15.5 x 13; 3.5t5.5
1040AHand10Solar Special10SL2315.5 x 13; 3.5t5.5
11AHand11Solar10S17 - 21
1104AHandSalviaSV17 - 2115.5 x 13; 4.4t5.5
1120AHand11Queen Seiko11QS231970D15.5 x 13; 3.5t6
1120AHandBelfina/11Queen Seiko Special11QSL23
1140AHand11 Solar Special11SL23
1144AHandSalvia SpecialSVL23
15AHandLady SeikoLS211959D19.6 x 12.9; 3.5t6
1520AHandFine SeikoFS1719.8 x 9.6; 3.5t5.5
1520BHandFine SeikoFS17 - 23
17AHandSeiko1700170017∅13.5; 3.2t6
17AHand17Queen Seiko17QS17
17AHand17Queen Seiko Special/17 Belfina17QSL201969D
175HandSportsman151960S
18AHandUniverseUN211960D∅13.5; 3.0t5.5
18B,MHandUniverseUN17
19AHandVenusVE171960D19.6 x 12.9; 3.5t6
1904AHand19Venus19VE17 - 2319.6 x 12.9; 3.5t8
1920AHandVenus SpecialVEL21
1944A,BHandSeiko High Beat Chronometer 360001944
1944BHandSeiko High Beat Chronometer19CM231967D19.6 x 12.9; 4.4t10
1964AHand19 Grand Seiko19GS231968D19.6 x 12.9; 4.4t10
1984AHand19 Grand Seiko High Beat V.F.A.1984231972D19.6 x 12.9; 4.4t10
205HandHarmonyHA191961S
21A,CHandSports Lady 17SLS171961D17.8 x 15.3; 3.5t5.5
21DHandSports Lady 17SLS17
2102A,CHandSports Lady 17 CalendarSLSC17
2104A,BHandChorusCR171961D17.8 x 15.3; 4.4t5.5
2105AAutoMatic Lady CalendarMALC21
2107AHandChorus CalendarCRC17 - 21
2107BHandChorus CalendarCRC17 - 21 - 23
2117AHandChorus CalendarCRC17
2118AHand21 Chorus Calendar21CRQ17 - 21 - 23
2119A,BHandChorus WeekdaterCRW21
2140AHandSeiko 2140214021
2160AHandSchool Time21ST17
2201AAutoSeiko 2201220117
2202AHand22 Chorus Calendar Echo22CRE17 - 21
2202AHand22 Chorus Calendar Special22CCL23
2205AAuto22 Matic Lady Calendar22NLQ17 - 211970D∅17.2; 5.7t8
2205AAuto22 Matic Lady Calendar Special22MSL25
2206AAuto22 Matic Lady Weekdater22MLW17 - 23
2206AAuto22 Automatic Weekdater22ATW17 - 23
2220AHandSeiko 2220222017 - 24
2242AHand22 Chronometer22CM231971D∅17.5; 5.8t8
2245AAuto22 Automatic Chronometer Calendar22ACM25
2406AHand2Matic Lady Weekdater24MLW23
2409AHandSeiko 2409240923
2411AHandSeiko 2411 ECharriot2411231972D
2415AHandSeiko 2415241523
2418AHandSeiko 2418241823
2419AHandSeiko 2419241923
2421AHandJoyfull Special242123
2426AHandJoyfull Special242623
2431AHandBellfina Seiko 2431243125
2425AHandBellfina Seiko 2435243525
245AutoSportsmaticSMA17 - 191961S
2451AutoSportsmaticSMA17 - 19
2466AAutoJoyfull Special2466251974D∅19.4; 4.3t8
2501A,B,CAuto25 Seikomatic Lady25MAL171965D∅17.5; 5.3t5.5
2502AHandChorus Calendar SpecialCRCL17 - 231964D∅17.5; 5.5t5.5
2505A,BAuto25 Seikomatic Lady Calendar25MLC21
2515BHand17
2516BAuto21
2517A,BAuto25Seikomatic Lady Calendar25MLQ17 - 211965D
2518A,BHand25 Chorus Calendar Special25CCL23
2518BHand25 Chorus Calendar Echo25CRE17 - 21
2519A,BHand25 Queen Seiko 25192519231965D∅17.5; 3.2t5.5
2539AHand25 Queen Seiko Special2539251966D∅17.5; 3.2t5.5
2559AHand25 Queen Seiko High Beat2559241968D8
2565AAuto25 Seikomatic Special25MSL25
270AutoMaticlady211960S18.4 x 15.3; 5.7t5.5
2706AAuto27 Maticlady Weekdater27 MLW17 - 211970D∅17.5; 5.7t8
290HandGyro MarvelGM171959S
2906HandJoyfull17 (21)1976D∅18.4; 5.3t8
3140HandSeikoliner211960S
3180HandGrand Seiko (first model)GS251960S
330HandQueen Seiko231962D18.4 x 15.3; 3.5t5.5
341HandCrown SpecialCWL231961S
375HandDisney Time71961S
394AutoSeikomatic SelfdaterMAS241962S
395AutoSeikomatic Selfdater Quick SetMASK24
400AutoMatic WeekdaterMAW33
4005AAutoSeiko Bellmatic Calendar40BC27
4006AAutoSeiko Bellmatic Weekdater/Business Bell40BW17 - 271967S∅31.2; 7.1t5.5
402HandSkylinerSLN211961S
410AutoSportsmatic 5SMA5211963S
430HandGrand Seiko WeekdaterGSS351963S
436HandSportsman 17SMS171960S
4361HandSportsman 17SMS171960S
44AHand44 King Seiko Quick SetKSK251964D∅26.0; 4.4t5
4402Hand44 King Seiko CalendarKSSK251965D∅26.0; 4.8t5
4420AHand44 Grand Seiko/44 King Seiko Chronometer44GS - EKSCM271964D∅26.0; 4.4t5
4420BHand44 Grand Seiko/44 King Seiko Chronometer44GS - EKSCM271964D
4500AHand45 King Seiko45KS25D∅27.4; 3.65t10
4500AHand45 King Seiko Chronometer45KM25∅27.4; 3.65t10
4502AHand45 King Seiko Calendar45KSC251969D∅27.4; 3.65t10
4502Ahand45 Grand Seiko Observatory Chronometer45KCM25∅27.4; 3.65t10
4520AHand45 Grand Seiko V.F.A.45GS251968D
4522AHand45 Grand Seiko Calendar45GSC251968D∅27.4; 3.6t10
4580AHand45 Grand Seiko V.F.A.4580251969D∅27.4; 3.65t10
4582AHand45 Grand Seiko Neuchatel Observatory Chronometer45GSN251969D∅27.4; 3.65t10
460HandLiner ChronometerLNCM251963S
4SAutoRevised Cal. 521992D
5000HandTomony71970S26.0 x 25.5; 4.4t6
5002HandTomony School with Date71970S26.0 x 25.5; 4.8t6
5005AutoTomony Automatic71970S26.0 x 25.5; 6.4t6
5018HandTomony Seagull Digital Display71974S26.0 x 25.5; 5.9t6
50CHandDisney Time171973S
5105∅26.0; 4.9t5.5
5106AAuto51 Matic Weekdater51MW331967D∅26.0; 4.9t5.5
5125∅26.0; 5.3t5.5
5126AAuto51 Seiko 5 (DX)51-5231967D∅26.0; 5.3t5.5
5139AAuto51 Seiko 5 (DX)51-5D27D∅26.0; 5.3t5.5
5145∅26.0; 5.3t8
5146AAuto51 Seiko Pressmatic Weekdater51PMW27 - 301969D∅26.0; 5.3t8
5205∅26.0; 3.9t8
5206AAuto52 Loadmatic Special Weekdater52LMW23 - 251969D∅26.0; 3.9t8
5216AAuto52 Loadmatic Special Weekdater52 LWL23 - 25
5245AAuto52 King Seiko Chronometer (Calendar)52KCM251971D∅26.0; 3.9t8
5246AAutoSeiko Vanac52KWL251973D∅26.0; 3.9t8
5246AAuto52 King Seiko Chronometer Weekdater52KWM251971D∅26.0; 3.9t8
5256AAutoSeiko Vanac52KWL251973D∅26.0; 4.2t8
54AHandChronosC17 - 21 - 231958D∅26.0; 4.0t5
560HandCrownCW19 - 211959S
5601AAuto56 Loadmatic56LMA231968S
5605AAuto56 Loadmatic Calendar56LMC25∅26.0; 4.3t6
5606AAuto56 Loadmatic Weekdater56LMW23 - 251968S∅26.0; 4.3t6
5619AAuto56 Seiko Duotime56DMC25∅26.0; 4.2t6
5621A,BAuto56 King Seiko56KA251969S
5625A,BAuto56 King Seiko Calendar56KAC251968S∅26.0; 4.5t8
5626A,BAuto56 King Seiko Chronometer (Calendar)56KCM251968S∅26.0; 4.5t8
5626A,BAuto56 King Seiko Weekdater56KAW251969S∅26.0; 4.5t8
5621A,BAuto56 King Seiko Chronometer Weekdater56KWM
5626BAutoSeiko Vanac56KAW
5641AAuto56 Grand Seiko56GA25
5645AAuto56 Grand Seiko (Calendar)56GAC251970S∅26.0; 4.5t8
5646AAuto56 Grand Seiko Weekdater56 GAW251970S∅26.0; 4.5t8
57BHandCrownCW21∅28.0; 4.7t5
5717AHandCrown Chronometer (Calendar)CWCGC211964S∅28.0; 6.1t5
5718AHandCountgraph (Olympic LE)211964S∅28.0; 7.3t5
5719AHandCrown ChronographCWCG211964S∅28.0; 6.1t5
5720AHandGrand SeikoGS251960S∅28.0; 4.4t5
5722AHandGrand Seiko SelfdaterGSS351963S∅28.0; 4.7t5
5722A,BHandGrand Seiko Calendar57GSC351963S∅28.0; 4.7t5.5
5740AHand57 Load Marvel (Engraved Numerals)LMK231964S∅28.0; 4.4t5
5740BHand57 Load Marvel (Applied Seiko Logo)LMK23S∅28.0; 4.4t5
5740CHand57 Load Marvel 36000LM36231967S∅28.0; 4.4t10
5760HandCrown SpecialCWL231961S∅28.0; 4.4t5
5780HandSkeletonized Watch191981S∅28.6; 4.1t6
57AHandCrown Selfdater211961S
603AutoSeikomaticMA17 - 20 - 21 - 301963S
60MHandGold FeatherGF17 - 251960D∅27.0; 2.9t5
61AHand61 Skyliner61SLN17 - 211968S∅27.4; 3.5t6
6102AHand61 Skyliner (Calendar)61SLC17 - 21
6105AAuto61 Diver (150m)61MC171968S∅27.4; 5.1t5
6105BAutoSeiko Diver (Hack Second)61MC17∅27.4; 5.1t5
6106AAuto61 Seiko 5DX61-5D251967S∅27.4; 5.1t5
6106BAuto61 Seiko 5DX61-5D17 - 251967S
6106CAuto61 Five Actus61-5A17 - 23 - 251967S
6106CAutoSeiko Advan61AD17 - 23 - 251967S
6110AHand61 Railroad Watch61RW211971S∅27.4; 3.5t6
6117A,BAuto61 Worldtime61WT171968S∅27.4; 5.1t6
6117AAuto61 Navigator Timer61NT17∅27.4; 5.1t6
6119A,B,CAuto6Seiko 5 Sports61-5211970S∅27.4; 5.1t5
6138A,BAutoSeiko 5 Sports Speedtimer61SPH211970S
6138A,BAutoSeiko Chronograph61CHW23∅27.4; 7.9t6
6139BAutoFine Sports Speedtimer61SPM171969S∅27.4; 7.1t6
6139BAutoFine Sports Speedtimer61SPM211969S∅27.4; 6.5t6
6145AAuto61 Grand Seiko Calendar61GAC251968S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6146AAuto61 Grand Seiko Weekdater61GAW251968S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6155AAuto61 Grand Seiko Special (Calendar)61GBC251971S
6156AAuto61 Grand Seiko Special Weekdater61GWL251970S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6159AAutoProfessional Diver 300 /61 Matic6159251967S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6159BAutoProfessional Diver 6006159251975S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6185A,BAutoGrand Seiko V.F.A. (specially Adjusted)6185251969S∅27.4; 5.6t10
6186AAutoGrand Seiko V.F.A. Weekdater (specially Adjusted)6186251972S
6200HandSeiko LinerLN23 (21)1960S∅26.0; 3.3t5
6201BAutoSeikomatic/Matic SilverwaveMA201960S∅28.0; 4.7t5
6205BAutoMatic SelfdaterMAS17 - 241962S∅28.0; 5.3t5
6206A,BAutoSeiko Business/Matic Weekdater62B-MAW261963S∅28.0; 5.6t5
6215AAutoSeiko Professional Diver 3006215351967S
6216AAutoMatic Weekdater62MWK39∅28.0; 5.6t5
6217AAutoSeiko Matic Divers Watch62MAS171964S∅28.0; 5.3t5
6217AAutoSeiko Matic WorldtimeMASWT171964S
6218A,B,CAutoSeikomatic WeekdaterMAWK351964S∅28.0; 5.6t5
6220MHandSkylinerSLN171961S∅24.1; 3.8t5
6220B,CHandSkylinerSLN21∅24.1; 3.8t5
6220DHandSkylinerSLN17 - 21∅24.1; 3.8t5
6222MHandSkyliner CalendarSLNC17∅24.1; 3.8t5
6222A,BHandSkyliner CalendarSLNC21∅24.1; 3.8t5
6222CHandSkyliner CalendarSLNC17 - 21∅24.1; 3.8t5
6240HandLiner Chronometer251963S∅26.0; 3.5t5
6245AAuto62 Grand Seiko/Seikomatic Chronometer62GAC-H351966S∅28.0; 5.6t5.5
6246AAuto62 Grand Seiko Weekdater/62Matic Weekdater Chronometer62GAW-H391966S∅28.0; 5.6t5.5
6306Auto5 Actus211976S∅27.4; 5.2t6
6309AutoExport Models Only171976S∅27.4; 5.2t6
6310Hand63 Railroad Watch171976S∅27.4; 3.4t6
6347AutoMoonphase (Only for Export)231986S∅27.4; 5.8t6
66A,BHandSportsmen 17SMS171960S∅24.1; 3.8t5
6601AAutoSportsmaticSMAC17 - 191961S∅28.1; 5.4t5
6601BAutoSportsmaticSMAC17 - 19∅28.1; 5.4t5
6602BHandSportsmen 17 CalendarSMSC17S∅28.1; 5.4t5
6605AutoSportsmatic Calendar191962S
6606BAutoSportsmatic 5SMA5211963S∅28.1; 6.4t5
6618AHandVisually/Hearing Impaired171966S∅24.1; 3.8t5
6619AAutoSportsmatic 566SA5211964S∅28.1; 6.4t5
6640AHandDisney Time71961S∅24.1; 3.8t5
6642AHand66 Schooltime7
6659AHand66 Schooltime Weekdater71964S∅24.1; 4.8t5
6660AHandSeiko 6660666021∅24.1; 3.8t5
6800HandThin Dress Watch68001969D19.7 x 16.9; 1.9t6
6810HandSeiko Dress Ultra Thin68101973D∅20.0; 1.9t6
6S74AutoCredor Chronograph1998D
7001AAutoAutomatic17
7005AAutoSeiko Automatic Calendar70AC17
7006AAutoSeiko Automatic Calendar17 - 19 - 211973S
7015AAuto70 5 Sports Speedtimer/Time Sonar70 SPS211970D∅26.0; 5.3t5
7016AAutoChronograph Automatic171976D
7017AAuto70 5 Sports Speedtimer70SP211971D
7018A,BAuto70 Seiko Chronograph (Weekdater)70CMW231971D
7019AAuto70 5 Actus/Seiko Advan70-5A/70AD211969D∅27.4; 4.8t6
7039AAutoSeiko Advan70ADL21
760HandFairwayFW211962D∅26.0; 3.7t5
761HandFairwayFW21
7605AAutoSportsmatic Calendar DX76SCD23∅28.0; 5.7t5
7606AAutoSportsmatic 5DXSMA-5D231964D∅28.0; 5.7t5
7619AAuto76 5DX76-5D25D∅28.0; 6.4t5
7622A,C,DHandCampion/Campion860CHC86171963D∅28.0; 4.3t5
7625A,C,D,EAutoSportsmatic Calendar 820SAC82171964D∅28.0; 5.7t5
790AutoSportsmatic CalendarSMC191962S
810HandChronos SpecialCL231962D∅26.0; 4.0t5
820AutoSportsmatic Calendar 820SAC82171964D
830AutoSeikomatic SlimMAM30
8301AutoSeikomatic SlimMAM301963S
8305BAuto83 Seikomatic Calendar/Matic Slim DateMAC/MAMD301963S∅29.0; 4.5t5
8305CAutoMatic Slim Date (with hand wind)83MC39∅29.0; 4.5t5
8306AAuto83 Seikomatic Weekdater/Seiko BusinessA83MW/83BA301965S∅29.0; 4.8t5
8325AAuto83 Seikomatic Calendar83MC39∅29.0; 4.5t5
8346AAuto83 Seikomatic Weekdater/Seiko BusinessA83MW/83BA27S∅29.0; 4.8t5
840AutoSeikomatic Slim DateMAMD30
850AutoChampion 850 (Alpinist)CH85171963D∅26.0; 3.7t5
851AutoChampionCH85171963D
860HandChampion/Champion 860CHC8617
8800Hand88 Stopwatch88ST7
9011Hand90 Stopwatch90ST7∅40.3; 6.1t5
9119AHandRailroad Watch91RW15∅41.3; 6.4t5
956HandSkyliner CalendarSLNC21
957HandSportsman 17 CalendarSMSC17
9S51AutoGrand Seiko (Calendar SS Bracelet)261998D
9S55AutoGrand Seiko (18k strap)241998D∅28.4; 5.3t8

THE VALJOUX 7750 CHRONOGRAPH



If there is a single movement ubiquitous in modestly-priced contemporary chronographs, it is the Valjoux 7750. Introduced in 1974--five years after the famed Zenith El Primero automatic--the movement has been supplied in both 21,600 and 28,800 beat versions. It uses an automatic-winding module attached to the top of the movement, winding in one direction by means of a single double-click wheel. Initially using 17 jewels, current versions run in 25. The 7750 is 13.25 ligne (30 millimeter) design, 7.9 millimeters thick.

THE CONCEPT OF COULISSE-LEVER DESIGNS

Like many contemporary chronographs, the Valjoux 7750 dispenses with the traditional column wheel for switching functions. Instead a heart piece limiter (left) is used to coordinate starting, stopping, braking, and reset functions, usually by means of two buttons in contemporary designs (the earliest coulisse-lever calibers used three buttons). The Valjoux 7750 also utilizes a concept first patented in 1941 by a watchmaker, Henri Jacot-Guyot. This is a reset-to-zero (or heart piece) lever which pivots to reassure accurate reset-to-zero of both the center hand and minute counter. Previous coulisse lever designs had not been as precise in this regard.

While the parts count of a coulisse-lever design is comparable to that of a column wheel design, the various levers and springs in the lever design require much less precision in form and materials and are much less expensive to manufacture. This--economy of manufacture--was and is the purpose of a coulisse lever caliber

(..)

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CONCLUSIONS

The Valjoux 7750 expresses an aspect of Swiss engineering skill that we do not normally associate with the Swiss watch industry: economy of manufacture. The 7750 is a good representation of the new, simplified chronographs that began to appear from Ebauches S.A. (now ETA) at the beginning of the 1940s and that provided serious, usually fatal, competition to smaller manufacturers of high-grade chronographs.

The Valjoux 7750 is now used in the vast majority of mechanical chronographs produced in Switzerland, and has allowed the mechanical chronograph function in watches of modest cost. For a caliber obviously engineered from the ground up for economy of manufacture, the 7750 has proved itself a reliable and durable workhorse. Without the 7750, mechanical chronographs might be known only to the buyers of luxury watches.

I wish to thank Bob Frei of the TZ Tool Shop and Frei & Borel for supplying the movement used in this review.

ETA, S.A. (Wikipedia)

ETA SA

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

ETA SA
TypeMember of the Swatch Group
Founded1856 (1793, 1896)
HeadquartersGrenchen, Switzerland
IndustryMovement manufacturing
ProductsBlank watch movements
Websitehttp://www.eta.ch

ETA SA (full business name ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse) is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of The Swatch Group.

Contents

[hide]

[edit]Overview

ETA SA is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group. The company specializes in the production of ébauchemovements which are used in a number of mechanical watches. ETA has owned several important Swiss watch movement companies including Valjoux, Peseux (see:[2] ) (and [3](translation) and Lemania, for a number of years . In fact the company is the result of successive consolidation of the Swiss watch industry. ETA manufactures quartz movements, hand wound movements and mechanical movements powered by self-winding mechanisms. Because ETA maintains vertical control over the manufacturing of all of the components required to create a watch movement (save for the hairsprings which are made by its sister company Nivarox) ETA may be considered a true manufacturer.

[edit]A Brief History

ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is one of the world's largest manufacturers of watches and movements.[1] In 1856 at Grenchen, Urs Schild, a schoolmaster, and Dr. Girard set up a watch movement (ébauche) factory which eventually became Eterna. In 1926, ETA AS (the movement branch of Eterna, founded in 1896) and FHF (founded in 1793) took part in the creation of Ebauches Ltd. In 1978 AS and ETA merged and in 1985 ETA took in all the activities done before by Ebauches Ltd and FHF (both part of SMH/Swatch Group).[2]

In 1998, SMH Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd, founded in 1983 through the merger Swiss watchmakers ASUAG and SSIH, was renamed the Swatch Group.

At the time, both SSIH and ASUAG held a number of well-established Swiss watch brands. ASUAG had been founded in 1931. ASUAG expanded through the purchase of companies that made movement-blanks and a number of finished watch manufacturers that were subsequently brought together under the subsidiary GWC, General Watch Co

SSIH was founded in 1930 through the amalgamation of Omega and Tissot. By consolidating companies that produced high-quality movements and a number of watch brands, SSIH gradually established a strong position in the Swiss watch industry.

In the 1930s, both ASUAG and SSIH entered into complementary research and development programs to combat a severe economic crisis. Following repeated crises in the Swiss watch industry, by the 1970s both ASUAG and SSIH were again in trouble. Foreign competition and the mass production of cheap new electronic products were taking over the market. Eventually, both ASUAG and SSIH faced bankruptcy.

In 1983, critical steps including the merger of ASUAG and SSIH into SMH and the launching of a low-cost, high-tech, artistic and emotional “second watch” - the Swatch. Invented, developed and launched by Ernst Thomke and his team. [3]

During all those years of crisis, and restructuration, since 1978, Dr. Ernst Thomke had been at the helm of ETA SA, and also had become CEO of Ebauches SA and appointed on the Board of Directors of ASUAG. He became SMH's first CEO, position he held until 1991. At that time, Nicolas G. Hayek, as newly elected Chairman of the Board and main shareholder had already become the only person of reference.

[edit]Workhorse mechanical movements

In recent years there has been an increase in interest in mechanical watches. ETA supplies the overwhelming majority of mechanical watch movements found in Swiss watches. As such, the ETA movements are considered the workhorses on the industry. Moreover, ETA has come to control a virtual monopoly over the production and supply of watch movements, more on that issue below.

[edit]ETA 2824-2

One workhorse of the ETA mechanical line is the ETA 2824-2, The 2824 is an automatic winding, twenty-five (25) jewel movement, available in four executions or grades: Standard, Elaborated (improved), Top and Chronometer[4]. The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the barrel spring, shock protection system, pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications:

  • the Standard grade is adjusted in two positions with an average rate of +/-12 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day;
  • the Elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions with an average rate of +/-7 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-30 seconds/day;
  • while the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-10 seconds/day.


The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the
COSC. Chronometer grade movements are serial numbered as that is a requirement of the certification authority. Moreover, it should be noted that the degree of decoration on the movement's parts, generally only an aesthetic improvement, increases as well with the grade.[5]

[edit]ETA 2892

The ETA 2892.A2[6] is however, widely considered the more upscale of the basic ETA movements, and it certainly a newer design dating to the 1970s where as the 2824 traces its roots back to the 1950s. The 2892 is fitted with top quality components. The 2892 is an automatic winding, twenty-one (21) jewel movement, available in three executions or grades: Elaborated,Top and Chronometer. The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring, and the regulator mechanism. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications:

  • the Elaborated grade is adjusted in four positions with an average rate of +/-5 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-20 seconds/day;
  • the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day, with a maximum daily variation of +/-15 seconds/day.

The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the COSC: an average rate of -4/+6 with a maximum daily variation of +/-5 seconds/day. The wider range for the Chronometer grade is designed to take into account the differences in a watches rate between static positions, as when the tests are performed, and the dynamic positions as when a watch is actually worn. Chronometer grade movements are serial numbered. Moreover, the degree of decoration on the movement's parts, generally an aesthetic improvement, increases with the grade.[7]

The 2892.A2 is regarded by many horologists as being in the same 'quality' range (accuracy and reliability) as the in-house produced Rolex movements.[citation needed] Insofar as accuracy is concerned any movement which is expected to be COSC-certified, or is in fact COSC-certified, must meet the same standards. The ETA 2892.A2 is usually found in the more expensive and prestigious watches and brands. Owing to its relatively slim height of 3.60 mm, the 2892.A2 is a favorite of watch brands that market complicated movements such as Breitling with its trademark chronograph (stop watches). Given the slim dimensions of the 2892, it provides a good platform on which to add or build a chronograph complication. It is also used in IWC's Portofino line without complications simply for its small size.

[edit]The Omega Co-axial based upon an ETA movement

Omega's popular Seamaster line of watches currently use an embellished version of the ETA 2892.A2, which is known as the Omega 1120. As an adjunct, some versions of the Omega watches may be fitted with the proprietary Co-axial escapement invented by George Daniels, an English horologist and exclusively marketed by Omega a sister company of ETA. The movement with the co-axial escapement is known as the Omega 2500 series and is derived from the ETA 2892.

[edit]Valjoux 7750

The Valjoux 7750[8] a/k/a ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph (stop watch) movement operated by cams integrated into the movement. The traditional mechanism used in the chronograph is known as the Column Wheel. With the advent of the Valjoux 7750, the column wheel was abandoned for a three (3) plane cam system. The three plane cam system is properly known as the Coulisse Levier mechanism. The system and movement were developed by Edmond Capt in 1970, as a fully integrated self-winding mechanism with quick-set day/date based on the Valjoux 7733.[9]

The movement is an automatic winding, twenty-five (25) jewel movement, which can be fitted with a variety of features including the triple date (day, date, month and moon phase) or a variety of two and three register models with totalizers or counters for minutes, seconds and hours. It is available in three executions or grades: Elaborated, Top and Chronometer. The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism. To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications: the Elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions with an average rate of +/-5 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-15 seconds/day; while the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-10 seconds/day. The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the [COSC]: an average rate of -4/+6 with a maximum daily variation of +/-5 seconds/day. [10]

[edit]Monopoly allegations and investigations

In the Swiss watch industry, there was a two-year investigation[11] into certain aspects of the business practices of ETA SA. The investigation was concluded in November 2005 by the Swiss Competition Commission with the finding that ETA was abusing its dominant market position. ETA had had the intention to discontinue its supply of ébauches (movement blanks) as of January 2006 and thereafter to supply only fully assembled watch movements and its own brands (the so-called “phasing-out”).

ETA argued that it was overwhelmed with orders and that its ébauches were sometimes ending up in fake (a/k/a replica or trademark pirated watches). [12] ETA also warned that there could be another crisis in Swiss watch making unless there was more innovation and investment. Nicolas Hayek, then the CEO of Swatch, the parent of ETA observed,

"[t]ere was no innovation, no new development, and when I pushed them to start doing new production, everybody started shouting... I said I was not going to deliver any more of my movements unless they try to do their own production... Otherwise the Swiss watch industry will suffer exactly the same problems it had before and it will go down.

However, the investigations revealed that ETA held a dominant position in the market for Swiss made mechanical ébauches up to a unit price of CHF 300. The regulators determined that stopping deliveries to third parties would have threatened the future of many small watchmakers in Switzerland and the termination of supply was to be regarded as an unlawful refusal to do business and therefore as an abusive practice. For numerous competitors, the implementation of the phasing-out within such a short time meant in practical terms that they had been deprived of the basis for their business activity, as there was no alternative supplier.

In an amicable settlement, ETA committed to supply the ébauches until the end of 2008 at the current volume and thereafter for two additional years at a reduced volume. This will create a situation in which alternative production plants may be set up. The regulators said the agreement gives small watch making companies in Switzerland enough time to adapt to the market and find new producers. [13]

This has spurred on progress in the watch movement circles with several brands developing proprietary movements, for example Panerai. Another discrete movement maker, Progress Watch Corp. also came into the market for a period of time. ETA movements have also been duplicated by various enterprises including Asian manufacturers and are usually being produced without license[14].